Author Topic: TS55 - advice needed on which tracks to buy (Read 8090 times)

nfk · « **on:** December 30, 2014, 01:58 PM »

I am getting closer and closer to pulling the trigger on a new TS55, which will be my first festool. I am stopping by a dealer this weekend to look around a bit. I am looking for suggestions for tracks. I want to be able to cut a full 8' sheet of plywood. Am I better off purchasing an additional 1400mm track and connecting the two or getting the 3000mm track. is there any accuracy lost when connecting the two 1400 tracks together? 2 1400 tracks would be much easier for me to store and haul than the 3000. Thanks for any advice.

JCLP · « **Reply #1 on:** December 30, 2014, 02:19 PM »

I have 2 - 1400 mm rails for over 2 years and have never had an accuracy issue. I too have no storage for a 3000mm rail. I would strongly recommend you purchase the Betterley Straighline connector to help you connect the 2 rails. Also a 4' level to aligh the 2 rails will help alot. I use everything I mentioned and I have never had an issue.
Cheers,
JC

ear3 · « **Reply #2 on:** December 30, 2014, 02:20 PM »

If cost is not an issue, go with the 3000. I'm very happy I did. It's possible to get a straight cut by connecting the rails, but it's not a foolproof operation. With the 3000 it's fix it and forget it. If you do go the connecting route though, you might want to get the 1900 along with the supplied 1400 instead of two 1400s. Having a variety of rail lengths in your arsenal is super helpful -- like when you need to rip a five foot long board, which would exceed 1400 capacity.

rvieceli · « **Reply #3 on:** December 30, 2014, 02:23 PM »

The general consensus is that the 3000 mm rail is the way to go if you have a way to safely store it in your shop. there are folks that transport it but it is rather unwieldy.

A couple of suggestions:

You should consider swapping the stock 1400 rail for the 1400 rail with holes when you buy the saw. Many dealers will do this and in the US the price is the same. That way you have the rail needed if you want to get into the LR32 hole drilling system.

Instead of an extra 1400 rail go fro the 1900. If you join them that will give you enough extra room to do angles on the length of ply.

Many folks join their rails. You just need connectors and a reliable straight edge to check the alignment and recheck it from time to time. The ends of the rails are not automatically square, so don't just butt then together and think you're going to be straight.

grbmds · « **Reply #4 on:** December 30, 2014, 05:17 PM »

While others have said they have difficulty connecting two rails in a straight line I don't think it's a problem. However, I have not connected two rails as long as you would be connecting. It seems to me it's as much a matter of available storage for and room to maneuver a long rail versus two shorter rails as it is the convenience of having one single rail. Isn't a 3000 mm rail difficult to manage? I wouldn't have the room to safely move a rail like that around in my shop regardless of storage. The only other issue is the time it takes to connect the two rails and make sure they are straight. Since I'm not doing this for a living and the time isn't really all that much, it's not a problem for me.

gary in texas · « **Reply #5 on:** December 30, 2014, 05:38 PM »

I also have two of the FS-1400/2, and two of the Holey rails. I also use the Betterley straight line connector, and haven't experienced any issues with alignment.

Now, having said that, if I had it to do over again, I would get the FS-3000 and two of the holey rails. The 3000 takes all of the effort/concern/caution/time (my own concerns or issues listed here) of connecting the two rails, ensuring that they are perfectly aligned, and not worrying about "if" they might have moved a tiny bit when repositioning the rails for another long cut on sheet goods. You can use one of the holey rails to cut across the sheet goods, you won't want to do that with the long rail.... As others have pointed out above, if you will be transporting the longer rail, just note the length and make sure you won't have issues hauling it around.

I eventually will probably get the FS-3000 and sale one or both of the FS-1400.

Peter Halle · « **Reply #6 on:** December 30, 2014, 06:26 PM »

If I remember correctly Per Swenson and his Dad actually did a bar top and had to join rails to exceed 28 feet. They didn't have any issues. I went looking for the image but didn't find it, but I did find this document. When you see the images of the long bar top that was the one that they set up the rails to make the rips. http://www.festoolusa.com/Web_files/Per_Swenson_Sanding_Bar_Top.pdf

Peter

anthonyz · « **Reply #7 on:** December 30, 2014, 10:23 PM »

I have no issues with connecting two rails. I have the Betterley connector and it has made it so easy to get the rails straight and allows you to connect the rails with ease. With a variety of rails I can almost get anysize I need without having a hard to store 3000mm. I would think it would be great in a larger shop but not if you are tight on space.

Rollin22Petes · « **Reply #8 on:** December 30, 2014, 10:25 PM »

I had to do the same thing Peter just mentioned a few weeks back not as long but right around 23'. I had to join 4 rails a 118'',75'',55'' and a 42'' not ideal but it can be achieved without problems I usually use a good 4' level for a straight edge.

jlyons · « **Reply #9 on:** December 31, 2014, 02:24 AM »

I have the 1400 holy rail and 1900. I love the 1900 rail for 4' cuts or diagonal across a 4' sheet. If i could just have 2 rails to start I would go 1900 and 3000. Then something shorter like the 42" rail. The extra length with the 1900 over the 1400 really is nice.

Sparktrician · « **Reply #10 on:** December 31, 2014, 08:09 AM »

I use two "Holy Rails" joined by the Festool connector bars and aligned using the Betterley Straightline Connector. In a small shop this works quite well. If I had a larger shop, I might consider the 3m rail, but it's just unworkable in the small shop, and more trouble than it's worth to transport in my work environment.

SoonerFan · « **Reply #11 on:** December 31, 2014, 09:07 AM »

I am a hobbyist. If I started cutting more 4 X 8 sheets I would consider a 3M rail. For now, I connect rails using the Festool connectors and a 4 ft level. I get excellent results. It takes a little time but the trade off in time is worth the cost and space savings for me at this time. I would as others have suggested request a holly rail when you get your TS. I did not know this was possible when I got a TS55 and therefore will someday have to purchase a separate holly rail.

BTW you will love the TS55. Absolutely a terrific saw and an excellent Festool entry point.

gary in texas · « **Reply #12 on:** December 31, 2014, 09:53 AM »

One more thing to consider. If you decide on the shorter rails, you should look into buying the Makita rail connectors (you will need two). I prefer the Makita design over the Festool connectors as they will not deform the rails. You can pick these up from Amazon....

nfk · « **Reply #13 on:** December 31, 2014, 11:01 AM »

Thanks for all the replies guys. I will definately check into getting the standard rail swapped with one with holes. I dont have a need for it now, or have a festool router, but who knows, better safe than sorry. I will just have to decide on the long rail vs the short. I do have room in my shop, but if I use the saw elsewhere it will be much easier to use 2 shorter tracks. I looked at the betterley connector, and it looks very slick. but for the $100 I would probably just use a 4 or 6' level to get them straight for the short term. I'm going to be looking them over this friday or saturday at the dealer and hopefully I will be picking one up by spring. I'm wanting to get started building cabinets for my shop and my wife is wanting closet cabinets and shelves built for the bedrooms. Wrestling 4x8 sheets on my table saw by myself is not something I look forward to. The tracksaw will be a huge timesaver.

JCLP · « **Reply #14 on:** December 31, 2014, 11:23 AM »

Quote from: nfk on December 31, 2014, 11:01 AM

Thanks for all the replies guys. I will definately check into getting the standard rail swapped with one with holes. I dont have a need for it now, or have a festool router, but who knows, better safe than sorry. I will just have to decide on the long rail vs the short. I do have room in my shop, but if I use the saw elsewhere it will be much easier to use 2 shorter tracks. I looked at the betterley connector, and it looks very slick. but for the $100 I would probably just use a 4 or 6' level to get them straight for the short term. I'm going to be looking them over this friday or saturday at the dealer and hopefully I will be picking one up by spring. I'm wanting to get started building cabinets for my shop and my wife is wanting closet cabinets and shelves built for the bedrooms. Wrestling 4x8 sheets on my table saw by myself is not something I look forward to. The tracksaw will be a huge timesaver.

I know they betterley connector is a little expensive, but it is worth it. You will find that when you move the 2 connected rails that sometime they get mis-aligned forcing you to check their alignement before making the next cut. Before I move the connected rails, I lock on the Betterley connector then move the connected rails. This keeps them aligned and no need to check for alignment. The connector is definetly a time saver. Cheers.
JC

Mahomo59 · « **Reply #15 on:** December 31, 2014, 12:44 PM »

I started with two 1400's and now have 800 and 2700, the latter is awesome for breaking down 8x4 and I find so much quicker now, easier and more enjoyable breaking down larger sheets. I've read several times that the 2700 is too short to breaking down 8x4 with the ts55...I just nod my head and think wtf! That tool has earned me some good money, I love it. Still plan most jobs where I get the sheets cuts first, who wants to man handle 8x4 sheets.

Wuffles · « **Reply #16 on:** December 31, 2014, 12:52 PM »

Quote from: Mahomo59 on December 31, 2014, 12:44 PM

I started with two 1400's and now have 800 and 2700, the latter is awesome for breaking down 8x4 and I find so much quicker now, easier and more enjoyable breaking down larger sheets. I've read several times that the 2700 is too short to breaking down 8x4 with the ts55.

It is too short if you are cutting diagonally old chap.

Wanna flog a 1400? I sold mine and regretted it moments after I remembered I used it with my rail dogs.

Mahomo59 · « **Reply #17 on:** December 31, 2014, 01:08 PM »

Sorry Dan

Found the spare 1400 too handy, 1400 & 800 stays on the van (2700 when needed). 1400 & 2700 stays in the workshop. I could pop over next week...

Wuffles · « **Reply #18 on:** December 31, 2014, 01:45 PM »

Yeah why not, fire me an email. Am working on kitchen cabs at home next week (and possibly for the rest of my life).

Mahomo59 · « **Reply #19 on:** December 31, 2014, 02:05 PM »

Awesome! Some WIP pictures to follow...

elfick · « **Reply #20 on:** December 31, 2014, 05:03 PM »

Quote from: rvieceli on December 30, 2014, 02:23 PM

A couple of suggestions:

You should consider swapping the stock 1400 rail for the 1400 rail with holes when you buy the saw. Many dealers will do this and in the US the price is the same. That way you have the rail needed if you want to get into the LR32 hole drilling system.

Instead of an extra 1400 rail go fro the 1900. If you join them that will give you enough extra room to do angles on the length of ply.

I'm going to second these suggestions. Have your dealer swap the hole 1400 for the regular rail. Then add the 1900 rail. I think most users end up as wide a selection as they can store/afford so might as well head that direction from the start.
When you get a MFT/3 you'll end up with a 1080. Then you'll just add an 800 and a 3000 to complete the common set.

roblg3 · « **Reply #21 on:** December 31, 2014, 05:30 PM »

I never had a problem joining rails until I did...on a $30,000 deck. pain in the butt to fix. That was 2 3000 rails though. My recommendation is to use as long of a very good straight edge you can find and USE IT ON THE PARTS THAT THE THUMBWEELS SLIDE ON. i put my straight edge along the left "parallel" edge, there was a small defect right out of the box that I didn't notice. It was just enough to cock the rails crooked over the 6 meters to make a very gentle curved cut

JBird · « **Reply #22 on:** December 31, 2014, 08:38 PM »

Quote from: roblg3 on December 31, 2014, 05:30 PM

My recommendation is to use as long of a very good straight edge you can find and USE IT ON THE PARTS THAT THE THUMBWEELS SLIDE ON.

The saw aligns itself to the other side of this channel (NOT the side with the thumbscrews). If the side the saw rides on is damaged then I can see resorting to the thumbscrew side. But otherwise the side that the saw rides on is the better choice to use the straight edge on.

Protip for Betterly Connector users:
Using the Betterly I get a truer alignment when I use the cams on the same side of the channel as the saw's cam thumbscrews. When used in this way the writing on the Betterly is upside down compared to the writing on the rail(and not the orientation shown in the manual). But when you think about it it makes perfect sense that the rail should be aligned on the same surface the saw rides on.

My understanding is that Festool recommends aligning the rails using the saw by tightening up the thumbscrews while straddling the joint. This is exactly the same mechanism at work on the Betterly. But the Betterly is much longer (which increases accuracy), the cams on the Betterly apply much more force, and it is also much more convenient since you can keep it attached when you flip or move the rail.

I highly recommend the Betterly (and Makita connectors). It was the only way I could get satisfactory results having tried all the other techniques. It was my last stop before giving in and buying two longer rails(one for tall LR32 cabinets, one for 8ft sheets) which would have cost $650! Well worth it.

roblg3 · « **Reply #23 on:** January 01, 2015, 05:41 AM »

Thank you for clarifying my statement. I simply mean to use the ridge in the center of the track and NOT the outside edge. You cannot rely on the saw across the joint method. It doesn't work when connecting long rails.

mark60 · « **Reply #24 on:** January 01, 2015, 03:48 PM »

I have the room to store the 3000 and need all the help I can get so that was the first thing I bought after getting my TS55.
I used it today for breaking down full sheets and was happy to have it.

johnredl · « **Reply #25 on:** January 02, 2015, 02:59 PM »

I've got 2x1400 tracks. They're just big enough. An extra bit of length would b good, but it's also great to have the 1400 track for smaller cuts.

If I had the $ lying around I'd be tempted to get the 3000 also, but for me to cut 6 or 8 sheets a year, the 2x1400 are big enough. I'm using the TS75

Does that help?